Food and Wine Magazine Features The Dish & Dram

Food and Wine Magazine










By David Landsel,

The light has barely crept in on an overcast fall morning, but when I arrive at the Leola Produce Auction, out on a country lane near Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Jerry Hollinger has already been hanging around for an hour, watching the tractors and the pickup trucks and the horse-drawn carts roll through, depositing the potatoes, tomatoes, the last of the watermelons, squash, pumpkins, sweet corn, Indian corn, every kind of corn.

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